huntin' and shootin'

so after cutting the jacket i decided to do the shoot on a whim. the day was nice and my friend Jovana from the other tailoring class was going to borrow a camera from level 7. i followed her. i then called my friend Ci and asked if she could model for me. she agreed. unfortunately for the first time in her life she wasn't wearing high heels so i started panicing. level 10 is magical. i found a pair of heels straight away. we wandered around the city and tried various places to do the shoot. at the end we found the entrance steps of Parliament station on the other side of Spring st. Perfect. the sun was beautiful, the back drop was minimal and just right.

 location 1: level 12 balcony

 location2: Parliament house

location 3: Parliament station steps.

XXX un-cut

here is the jacket beforeafter i fused it on a mannequin. at this stage the jacket hasnt been cut to reveal openings.

 instead of having a traditional collar I'm implying one with the use of foam. using the straight sewer i sewed in the break line to aid the fold and fused down the lapel. on one side i also fused in the implied welt pocket.

 so here is the collar. i sewed on fabric tape with the zig zag machine along the perimeter that will join to the jacket in order to stop the foam from stretching out of shape. i also using the straight sewer sewed in the break line to help the foam to fold better.

these are the isolated blazer pieces on the 100% superfine worsted wool. i cut it to a perfect square and frayed the edges to exactly 2 cm for a very manicured look. using visafix i fused the pieces on.

shairing is careing

i referenced classical tailoring techniques with the use of shoulder pads. because the jacket is modular and splits apart i cut the pads in half so that when its zipped up the pad would join together.

sleeve the rest part 2

to build up the various sections of the blazer i used shoulder pads that i had sewn together to make a more pronounced segment. i pinned the eased sleeve to the pad and placed it onto a mannequin and took some photos.

sleeve the rest

after creating the foam sleeve i glued the birdseye wool using visafix to the outside. after doing that i used sewing tape as a solid 'stray' to ease the sleeve head onto itself to refference the clissic tailouring techniques. 

prototype

 i made up the sleeves but they were too large so i had to take out some volume from them. i drew vertical lines and cut out the pieces. i then zig zaged them together.

so i started the final experimental prototype using dimensionally stable bra foam. i cut out the cropped jacket panels to use as the structure. the joints of this tailored jacket are zips that i had to custom shorten myself because im not advanced enough to order the right size zips... i used the zig zag machine to attach the zips. it made a smoother line on the edges of the bra foam.

oops

this is the flat calico version of one of the experimental toiles. *this is unfortunately an out of order post*

frankenstein creation

 this configuration wasn't successfully because there isn't enough volume between the two shoulder seams to flair out enough over the shoulders.

 Because this is a mens block, the dart value in the front isn't sufficient enough to house the fabric volume. i flaired out the dart value, which in turn created quite a collar that had quite a pronounced and feminine stand. this idea lends itself better to women's wear.

as part of the toiling proses i pinned on various isolated parts of the blazer to a scrap of calico just so see how this concept would work on a human body. i played around with various combinations.

Experimentation

this is my experimental toile. it was made in two halves. one half was a normal three panel cropped tailored jacket and the other half is the same mirrored components of the tailored cropped jacket but attached in isolation to a flat sheet of fabric. the seams have been treated with zips so that the garment can be constructed to stay together. i like this idea of the garment being 'un-tailoured' at first but then the wearer can 'tailor' it to themselves with the amount of panels that are zipped up or released.

i have a secret

for the experimental toile i used the idea of the darts as openings, like secret passages. the dart looks like a normal dart but infacts are invizible zips that can be undone to reveal secret volume.